Archive for the ‘Hungary’ Category

Gerbeaud

Tuesday, April 15th, 2008

Gerbeaud is the most famous cafe in Budapest. The opening scene of the book “Prague” is here. As a proud member of the diaspora of Americans who moved to Eastern Europe in the early 1990′s, I can personally vouch for this book’s authenticity. The characters all ring absolutely true, as does the setting. I never finished the book; I didn’t want to. As long as I have not read the last page, the characters have not finished their journey and still live and breath, and I can yet come back to them. Lying there unfinished, it is among my favorite books of all time.

Gerbeaud, the cafe in the opening of the book, sits in the middle of Budapest’s most central square, at the start of the oldest subway in continental Europe. It’s a beautiful setting on a sunny day and great for people watching.

The cafe, with stairs to the subway in front.

Years ago, I read a restaurant review which stated that the quality of a cuisine’s desserts is inversely proportional to the capital’s distance from Vienna. And Budapest is spitting distance from Vienna! Note Baby Aaron waiting quietly, wondering when he gets his dessert.

“Hi, everybody!”

This is for Christopher

Tuesday, April 15th, 2008

Czech Budweiser on draft. One of the world’s $1000 beers!

Andrea's 40th Birthday

Tuesday, April 15th, 2008

Present for Andrea

Sunday was Andrea’s 40th birthday. The Ihasz’s invited us to lunch at a very nice place.

Dang! These cookies are big!

Afterwards, we retired to a park overlooking the castle for the kids to play in.

Motorcycle in Budapest!

Monday, March 31st, 2008

This little 250cc motorcycle belongs to my brother-in-law, Attila. He’s offered to let me use it while I’m in town. This Sunday (March 30) was the first day I got to use it.

Szentendre

Saturday, March 29th, 2008

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Rainy day visit to Szentendre, an touristy/artsy village north of Budapest. Think Carmel, California or Woodstock, New York and you’re not far off. Train trip to the city, meet friends, walk a bit to the Danube, pizza, beer, walk to a cute cafĂ©, coffee, desserts then back to Budapest.

Photo above is off the internet, since all of mine had smirking kids and dark clouds. Funny thing – the horse and carriage were there today for us as well. Camilla was brave enough to pet the horse. Dan-dan wasn’t. Aaron was asleep.

Libri International Bookstore, Budapest

Wednesday, March 26th, 2008

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When I was living abroad before, English bookstores were almost impossible to find. There was one large used bookstore in Prague (the Globe), which had at best an eclectic selection (the owners had people buy books at garage sales in the US and ship them over). There was a very expensive, very nice English bookstore in Moscow next to the KGB building in the early 90′s.

I was very surprised at how well-stocked the Libri bookstore on Vaci Utca in Budapest is. Two floors of English language books. The second photo is just their selection of recent science fiction titles. Certainly beats Readmore in New Castle, Indiana …

Dear Diary

Tuesday, March 25th, 2008

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When I first imagined our time in Budapest, I thought it would be hardship, expense, dense language study and long nights working for my business all in the name of an occasional twenty minute break to sit at in an open street cafe, sipping coffee/beer/wine in the sun and saying, “Dang, I’m in Europe.” Today was one of those twenty minute days.

Gabi and I walked out of the apartment with no destination except to look at restaurants and take the best-looking one for lunch today. We walked to a pedestrian street (Vaci Utca) three short blocks away. The photos above show the street and one pub we stopped in front of. If you look in the distance, at the end of the street is the enclosed Farmers’ Market that we took Dan-dan and Camilla to our first week here (and wrote about on the blog).

We ended up at a Thai restaurant that Gabi had been to eleven years ago. Great food! And we stopped at an open street cafe for coffees and dessert. Sumptuous!

“Your 20 minutes are over! Back to work!”

Gabi's Walking Tree

Sunday, March 23rd, 2008

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This is some really ancient history in Gyula. When Gabi was one year old, in August 1969, her family went on a visit to Gyula. The house shown here was owned by Gabi’s Great-Grandparents (parents of our kids’ Great-Grandma who lives in Budapest now). It was under the walnut tree here that Gabi first started walking.

The house is no longer in the family. We snapped the photo while driving by on the main road out of Gyula.

Trip to Romania

Thursday, March 20th, 2008

While I was in Gyula, I borrowed Monika’s bicycle and went riding to Romania. Gyula is a border town, so it was a very short ride. I went through the border town on the other side and rode around for about an hour. I took a few photos below.

 

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If you have seen the movie Borat, you should note that the impoverished sequences showing Kazakhstan were actually photographed in Romania. I could see why. Below was a horse cart I passed outside of town which was clearly still being used as functional transportation.

 

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Let me check my watch here. Yes, it is the twenty-first century.

Gyula – Gabi's New Glarus

Monday, March 17th, 2008

This weekend, we borrowed my brother-in-law’s car (DaeWoo with 120k kilometers for the car fans in the family), stocked it full with three kids in the backseat and a trunk full of Gabi’s packing and took off for Gyula in southern Hungary.

Gyula is Gabi’s New Glarus. For those not in-the-know, my father’s family first came to America and put down roots in New Glarus, Wisconsin, a small Swiss-village tourist town. Gabi’s father’s family moved from Gyula to Budapest in the 1950′s, just after her father was born. Most of her father’s relatives still live in Gyula. There is even an active farm still in the family. We spent the weekend visiting about dozen relatives in four separate families around the town.

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The drive is about three hours (more with potty breaks, coffee breaks, ice cream breaks and the like). The scenery is the flattest, most verdant land I have ever seen in Europe. It looks more like central Indiana than anything else, though the towns are clearly all quite ancient.

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Gyula is a bit of a tourist town. It has a small fortress in the center, along with some thermal baths and a nice walking street for shopping, restaurants, cafes and pubs. While it’s all quite nice, it’s not really a very famous place by any means.

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Gabi’s Godfather with Baby Aaron.

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Gabi’s Godmother with Baby Aaron.

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Gabi and Cousins Anita and Monika (with Baby Aaron)

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Cousins with their parents.

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The parents run an active farm with eight giant hothouses, full with Hungarian paprika. I made the great mistake of biting into one. Ouch!!

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Dan-dan and his cousin Martin inspecting the sheep stalls.